Issue 68, sudoku: locations of the shaded boxes
There's been an error in issue 68's suduoku. The coloured squares were missed off by accident when we went to press. The squares that should be coloured are:
First column, four squares down from the top-left (the number above the 9)
Four columns in from the top left, right at the bottom (the number below the 2 and next to the 4)
Eight columns in from the top left, five squares down (the number between the 8 and 3)
First column, four squares down from the top-left (the number above the 9)
Four columns in from the top left, right at the bottom (the number below the 2 and next to the 4)
Eight columns in from the top left, five squares down (the number between the 8 and 3)
Heirloom Blanket Part 1 issue 66
Here are the corrections for the Heirloom Blanket part 1 from issue 66, marked in bold.
Round 1 *K1, k4tog, (yf, K1) 5 times, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 2, 3 & 4 Knit.
Round 5 As round 1.
Round 6 (K1, yf) twice, K12; rep from * to end. [256 sts]
Rounds 7 & 8 Knit.
Round 9 *K1, k4tog, (yf, K1) 7 times, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end. [288 sts]
Rounds 10, 11 & 12 Knit.
Round 13 *K1, k4tog, (yf, K1) 9 times, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end. [352 sts]
Rounds 14, 15 & 16 Knit.
Round 17 *K1, k4tog tbl, (yf, K1) twice, yf, K2, k2tog, yf, K1, yf, k2tog tbl, K2, (yf, K1)twice, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 18, 19 & 20 Knit.
Round 21 *K1, k4tog tbl, (yf, K1) 3 times, k2tog, yf, K3, yf, k2tog tbl, (K1, yf) 3 times, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 22, 23 & 24 Knit.
Round 25 *K1, k4tog tbl, (yf, K1) twice, yf, k2tog, yf, K5, yf, k2tog tbl, (yf, K1) twice, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 26, 27 & 28 Knit.
Round 29 * K1, k4tog tbl, yf, K1, yf, k2tog, yf, K3, yf, K1, yf, K3, yf, k2tog tbl, yf, K1, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 30, 31 & 32 Knit.
Round 33 (Inc row) K1, k3tog tbl, yf, K2tog, yf, K4, (yf, K1) 3 times, yf, K4,yf, k2tog, yf, k3tog; rep from * to end. [384 sts]
Rounds 34, 35 & 36 Knit.
Round 37 *K1, k3tog, yf, K8, yf, K1, yf, K8, yf, k3tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 38, 39 & 40 Knit.
Round 41 * K1, yf, k3tog, yf, K20; rep from * to end.
Round 42 * K2, make bobble, K21; rep from * to end.
Rounds 43 & 44 Knit.
Round 45 Purl. Cast off.
Thank you to the reader who brought this to our attention, we hope you'll enjoy knitting the blanket.
Round 1 *K1, k4tog, (yf, K1) 5 times, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 2, 3 & 4 Knit.
Round 5 As round 1.
Round 6 (K1, yf) twice, K12; rep from * to end. [256 sts]
Rounds 7 & 8 Knit.
Round 9 *K1, k4tog, (yf, K1) 7 times, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end. [288 sts]
Rounds 10, 11 & 12 Knit.
Round 13 *K1, k4tog, (yf, K1) 9 times, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end. [352 sts]
Rounds 14, 15 & 16 Knit.
Round 17 *K1, k4tog tbl, (yf, K1) twice, yf, K2, k2tog, yf, K1, yf, k2tog tbl, K2, (yf, K1)twice, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 18, 19 & 20 Knit.
Round 21 *K1, k4tog tbl, (yf, K1) 3 times, k2tog, yf, K3, yf, k2tog tbl, (K1, yf) 3 times, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 22, 23 & 24 Knit.
Round 25 *K1, k4tog tbl, (yf, K1) twice, yf, k2tog, yf, K5, yf, k2tog tbl, (yf, K1) twice, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 26, 27 & 28 Knit.
Round 29 * K1, k4tog tbl, yf, K1, yf, k2tog, yf, K3, yf, K1, yf, K3, yf, k2tog tbl, yf, K1, yf, k4tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 30, 31 & 32 Knit.
Round 33 (Inc row) K1, k3tog tbl, yf, K2tog, yf, K4, (yf, K1) 3 times, yf, K4,yf, k2tog, yf, k3tog; rep from * to end. [384 sts]
Rounds 34, 35 & 36 Knit.
Round 37 *K1, k3tog, yf, K8, yf, K1, yf, K8, yf, k3tog; rep from * to end.
Rounds 38, 39 & 40 Knit.
Round 41 * K1, yf, k3tog, yf, K20; rep from * to end.
Round 42 * K2, make bobble, K21; rep from * to end.
Rounds 43 & 44 Knit.
Round 45 Purl. Cast off.
Thank you to the reader who brought this to our attention, we hope you'll enjoy knitting the blanket.
Tilly Twirl, issue 66
We've had several calls from readers who are struggling with the Tilly Twirl pattern from the 'Beautiful Toys to Knit' leaflet, free with issue 66.
Here are the corrections we know about at this stage – we hope we've caught all the mistakes, but if you've spotted one, please do let us know.
SHAPE CHEEKS
Next row (RS) K6, sl 1, k2tog, psso, K7, k3tog, K6. [21 sts]
BACK OF HEAD
Next row K1, *m1, K1; rep from * to end of row. [11 sts]
Next row Purl.
Next row * K2, m1; rep from * to last st, K1. [16 sts]
SHAPE TUMMY
Row 17 (RS) K6, m1, (K3, K1) twice, K1, m1, (K3, m1) twice, K6. [31 sts]
Work 7 rows straight. Dec 1 st at each end of the next and every foll alt row until 21 sts rem.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, *k2tog, K2; rep from * to end of row. [16 sts]
Next row P1, (p2tog) to last st, K1. [9 sts]
Next row K1, (k2tog) to end of row. [5 sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Cast off.
HAIR
Row 1 * Cast on 31 sts using 4mm needles and yellow yarn, turn, cast off 30sts, leaving the last st on needle; rep from * until you have worked 9 strands, fasten off at the end of the last strand.
We apologize for any confusion this has caused and hope that you'll enjoy knitting Tilly and her clothes.
Here are the corrections we know about at this stage – we hope we've caught all the mistakes, but if you've spotted one, please do let us know.
SHAPE CHEEKS
Next row (RS) K6, sl 1, k2tog, psso, K7, k3tog, K6. [21 sts]
BACK OF HEAD
Next row K1, *m1, K1; rep from * to end of row. [11 sts]
Next row Purl.
Next row * K2, m1; rep from * to last st, K1. [16 sts]
SHAPE TUMMY
Row 17 (RS) K6, m1, (K3, K1) twice, K1, m1, (K3, m1) twice, K6. [31 sts]
Work 7 rows straight. Dec 1 st at each end of the next and every foll alt row until 21 sts rem.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, *k2tog, K2; rep from * to end of row. [16 sts]
Next row P1, (p2tog) to last st, K1. [9 sts]
Next row K1, (k2tog) to end of row. [5 sts]
Work 3 rows straight.
Cast off.
HAIR
Row 1 * Cast on 31 sts using 4mm needles and yellow yarn, turn, cast off 30sts, leaving the last st on needle; rep from * until you have worked 9 strands, fasten off at the end of the last strand.
We apologize for any confusion this has caused and hope that you'll enjoy knitting Tilly and her clothes.
New Leaf, issue 65 (UPDATED)
Thanks to Maria Birchall for sending this correction in so quickly.
She says: I discovered a mistake on the back. After the word purlwise, row 19 reads: K1, p2tog, P4, *P26 (28:28:34:34:34); rep from * once, P17 (23:28:31:36:41). The P26 and the P17 should be K26 and K17.
You should knit rather than purl for all sizes.
Update 15 March 2010: We've had another phone call about this pattern and a sharp-eyed reader has pointed out a mistake. Row 9 includes instructions which read k2tog, K5, * K26. This is incorrect and should read k2tog, P5, *K26.
Apologies for the errors – we hope you'll enjoy knitting this pattern.
She says: I discovered a mistake on the back. After the word purlwise, row 19 reads: K1, p2tog, P4, *P26 (28:28:34:34:34); rep from * once, P17 (23:28:31:36:41). The P26 and the P17 should be K26 and K17.
You should knit rather than purl for all sizes.
Update 15 March 2010: We've had another phone call about this pattern and a sharp-eyed reader has pointed out a mistake. Row 9 includes instructions which read k2tog, K5, * K26. This is incorrect and should read k2tog, P5, *K26.
Apologies for the errors – we hope you'll enjoy knitting this pattern.
Sudoku competition not live
The sudoku competition is currently not available to enter online owing to a technical glitch. Thank you to everyone who's let us know. Unfortunately the person who sets up the online competitions is on holiday, and so we will not be able to get it running until next week. All other competitions that should be active right now appear to be, and the phone lines appear to be working for all competitions, sudoku included. We are sorry for any inconvenience, but once it's working you'll be able to enter the sudoku online for several more weeks, so you will still have lots of time to enter.
See the magazine for full competition terms and conditions.
See the magazine for full competition terms and conditions.
Ruffled Neckwarmer, issue 63
We've unfortunately missed off the explanation for how to crochet a bobble on this pattern.
To make a bobble: work 3 dc into next space until 1 loop from each dc remains on the hook, yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
Appolgogies for any delays to your project – we hope you'll enjoy this pattern!
To make a bobble: work 3 dc into next space until 1 loop from each dc remains on the hook, yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
Appolgogies for any delays to your project – we hope you'll enjoy this pattern!
Correct contact details for Crendon Buttons
The correct telephone number to call for information on stockists of Crendon Buttons, mentioned in issue 62 of Simply Knitting, is: 01453 883581 (not 851)
Zig Zag scarf, issue 60
This is embarrassing because it's one of mine! There's a typo in line 9 of the main part of the scarf. It should read:
Row 9 (K2, K2tog, yf, K3, K2tog, YF, K4, yf, skpo, K2)
It currently has a 5 instead of the final 2. Hopefully if you're knitting it you'll have worked out how the pattern actually works as the progression of holes is very regular. It was a transcription error when I copied it up from my notebook, I am very sorry for this.
Thank you to the nice lady who rang in to query it and was so friendly about the mistake.
Row 9 (K2, K2tog, yf, K3, K2tog, YF, K4, yf, skpo, K2)
It currently has a 5 instead of the final 2. Hopefully if you're knitting it you'll have worked out how the pattern actually works as the progression of holes is very regular. It was a transcription error when I copied it up from my notebook, I am very sorry for this.
Thank you to the nice lady who rang in to query it and was so friendly about the mistake.
Advertising Feature: Great Gifts for Knitters – mistake
We made a mistake printing the contact details for the Mili silk knitting bag in our Great Gifts feature.
If you've been oggling the gorgeous Mili 'Dumpy' bag featured on page 32 of Simply Knitting issue 60, then you need to contact Milistyle (not Hantex!) on 0844 879 4719 or visit www.milistyle.co.uk where you can see the full range and order online.
They're even offering free UK delivery on orders over £20 right now, so it's a great time to do a bit of Christmas shopping!
If you've been oggling the gorgeous Mili 'Dumpy' bag featured on page 32 of Simply Knitting issue 60, then you need to contact Milistyle (not Hantex!) on 0844 879 4719 or visit www.milistyle.co.uk where you can see the full range and order online.
They're even offering free UK delivery on orders over £20 right now, so it's a great time to do a bit of Christmas shopping!
Simply Knitting Calendar 2010 - errata
Our 2010 Knitter's Calendar was your gift with Simply Knitting issue 59 (on sale from 10 September 2009).
We've been thrilled to hear from everyone who is knitting one of the patterns and are sorry to say there's a mistake in the July - Fascinator pattern.
In this design, row 9 should read: P3, *k2tog tbl, K2, k2tog, P3; rep from * to end.
We've been thrilled to hear from everyone who is knitting one of the patterns and are sorry to say there's a mistake in the July - Fascinator pattern.
In this design, row 9 should read: P3, *k2tog tbl, K2, k2tog, P3; rep from * to end.
Parisian Romance shawl, issue 57
Eagle-eyed reader Mary Fairbank has spotted that the chart for the shawl has been 'flipped' so it's the mirror image of what it should be. Work it in reverse and you'll find that the shaping works correctly.
Well done, Mary!
Well done, Mary!
Issue 56 errata –
We've had a couple of calls from readers about the Rico Design Bonus Pattern and the Luxe Lace socks. We're thrilled that you're knitting our patterns and apologise for the following mistakes.
Rico Design Bonus Pattern
The stitch count is wrong after the armhole shaping and should read:
Shape armhole
With RS facing, cast off 3 sts at beg of next row, then 2 st at beg of foll alt row. [88 (86) sts]
Cast off 1 st at beg of 3 (4) foll alt row. [82 (86) sts]
When back meas 20¾ (22)in, 53 (56)cm, cast off.
The collar should read K1, P1 rib, not K2, P2.
Luxe Lace Socks
Round 1 should read *K4, P3 to keep the rib at the top in line with the rest of the pattern.
There is also an abbreviation missing from the side bar. If you haven't come across p2sso before, it means 'pass 2 slip stitches over'.
To clarify, therefore, the instruction 'sl 2 together, K1, p2sso' is not a misprint: slip two stitches at the same time (as though to k2tog), knit the following stitch then pass the two slipped stitches over the stitch just knit. This creates the vertical decrease in the lace pattern.
On a personal note, as this is my first sock pattern for the magazine, I'm thrilled people are knitting it! I hope the mistakes don't prevent you from enjoying it.
Elizabeth
Rico Design Bonus Pattern
The stitch count is wrong after the armhole shaping and should read:
Shape armhole
With RS facing, cast off 3 sts at beg of next row, then 2 st at beg of foll alt row. [88 (86) sts]
Cast off 1 st at beg of 3 (4) foll alt row. [82 (86) sts]
When back meas 20¾ (22)in, 53 (56)cm, cast off.
The collar should read K1, P1 rib, not K2, P2.
Luxe Lace Socks
Round 1 should read *K4, P3 to keep the rib at the top in line with the rest of the pattern.
There is also an abbreviation missing from the side bar. If you haven't come across p2sso before, it means 'pass 2 slip stitches over'.
To clarify, therefore, the instruction 'sl 2 together, K1, p2sso' is not a misprint: slip two stitches at the same time (as though to k2tog), knit the following stitch then pass the two slipped stitches over the stitch just knit. This creates the vertical decrease in the lace pattern.
On a personal note, as this is my first sock pattern for the magazine, I'm thrilled people are knitting it! I hope the mistakes don't prevent you from enjoying it.
Elizabeth
Updated again: Fyberspates sock pattern, Simply Knitting issue 55 - errata
If you're thinking of knitting Karen Wessel's gorgeous socks which are the bonus pattern with issue 55 of Simply Knitting, please note that there is an error in the pattern.
Round 37 should read: "K2cc, K2ss repeat until end" and not "K1cc, K2ss repeat until end"
There's also a problem with the instructions for Rounds 38-48. It should read "Repeat rounds 34-37 twice", not once as written.
We apologise for the mistakes, and hope you enjoy knitting these stunning socks!
Updated: Several people have written in asking for the charts for these socks, and we are now able to make them available: Fyberspates Socks Chart (PDF). Please note that this is not a complete pattern. These charts can be used in addition to the pattern in the magazine if you prefer to work from them.
This chart is a PDF document. It won’t open unless you have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer. You can download this program from the Adobe website for free. If you have Acrobat Reader and it’s still not working, try right-clicking the link and clicking “save as”. Save the document onto your computer – make sure you can find it again! – and try opening it from there.
Round 37 should read: "K2cc, K2ss repeat until end" and not "K1cc, K2ss repeat until end"
There's also a problem with the instructions for Rounds 38-48. It should read "Repeat rounds 34-37 twice", not once as written.
We apologise for the mistakes, and hope you enjoy knitting these stunning socks!
Updated: Several people have written in asking for the charts for these socks, and we are now able to make them available: Fyberspates Socks Chart (PDF). Please note that this is not a complete pattern. These charts can be used in addition to the pattern in the magazine if you prefer to work from them.
This chart is a PDF document. It won’t open unless you have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer. You can download this program from the Adobe website for free. If you have Acrobat Reader and it’s still not working, try right-clicking the link and clicking “save as”. Save the document onto your computer – make sure you can find it again! – and try opening it from there.
Fine Leg cricket socks - where to get the yarn
This is entirely my error, which is sort of embarrassing as it's my own pattern. I forgot to include where to buy the yarn on the Suppliers page in issue 56. I bought my Bluefaced Supersock from Laughing Hens. For the smaller sizes you should only need a single skein (plus scraps of solid colours for the coloured stripes; I used leftover Opal Uni) but for huge bowler feet and calves you will need two skeins, although you'll have a good chunk left over.
Issue 54 errata – Berry Ripple by Kirstie McLeod
We've had a couple of calls about a typo in Simply Knitting issue 54, in the Berry Ripple pattern by Kirstie McLeod.
As you may have noticed, there's no row 5! This is a typo: there's no missing row – just continue from Row 4 to Row 6 (which should have been labelled Row 5) and on through the pattern.
More importantly, where the pattern says to 'Repeat these 13 rows' it should say 'Repeat Rows 6-13'.
We apologise for the mistake, and hope you enjoy knitting the scarf.
As you may have noticed, there's no row 5! This is a typo: there's no missing row – just continue from Row 4 to Row 6 (which should have been labelled Row 5) and on through the pattern.
More importantly, where the pattern says to 'Repeat these 13 rows' it should say 'Repeat Rows 6-13'.
We apologise for the mistake, and hope you enjoy knitting the scarf.
One Pattern, Three Looks – errata – issue 51
The One Pattern, Three Looks fingerless gloves by Carole Meldrum in issue 53 has a mistake.
In Row 57, after you've increased for the thumb, you continue across the row in the stitch pattern as set.
Thus, second half of the row should read:
... K9, m1, K1, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K3, sl 2, K1, p2sso, K3, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K3, sl 2, K1, p2sso, K3, yfwd, K2.
The K3 in bold has been omitted from the pattern in error. We apologise for this mistake – although it doesn't seem to have slowed most of you down!
In Row 57, after you've increased for the thumb, you continue across the row in the stitch pattern as set.
Thus, second half of the row should read:
... K9, m1, K1, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K3, sl 2, K1, p2sso, K3, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K3, sl 2, K1, p2sso, K3, yfwd, K2.
The K3 in bold has been omitted from the pattern in error. We apologise for this mistake – although it doesn't seem to have slowed most of you down!
Spring Bloom, issue 54 – errata
There's a mistake in the Spring Bloom pattern by Marie Wallin in issue 54 of Simply Knitting.
An eagle-eyed reader has just called to point out that inches and centimetres are not the same! On page 26, in the "back" section an instruction tells you to "work in st st until back meas 22(22: 21: 24: 23: 25)in, 22(22: 21: 24: 23: 25)cm". The centimetres are correct.
The inches should read: 8 3/4 (8 3/4: 8 1/4: 9 1/2: 9: 9 3/4)in.
Apologies for this typo!
An eagle-eyed reader has just called to point out that inches and centimetres are not the same! On page 26, in the "back" section an instruction tells you to "work in st st until back meas 22(22: 21: 24: 23: 25)in, 22(22: 21: 24: 23: 25)cm". The centimetres are correct.
The inches should read: 8 3/4 (8 3/4: 8 1/4: 9 1/2: 9: 9 3/4)in.
Apologies for this typo!
Sackboy's Eyes

Sackboy's bold black eyes are actually fairly prosaic 20mm shank buttons. If you're having trouble finding them in your local haberdashery, try www.sewessential.co.uk and look under 'Elegant Buttons'.
Not knitted a Sackboy yet? Get the pattern for free!
The pattern is not being hosted by Simply Knitting so we can't say how much longer it will be available. If you have problems downloading it, please contact the webmaster of the The Sun's site.
Small Wonders Christmas pudding decoration
We missed out the making up instructions for the Christmas Pudding decoration in the Small Wonders (part 2) in issue 48. Please find the instructions below!
We've also had a couple of readers asking about the increasing for the pudding and other decorations. Clare has a slightly unusual way of doing her increases which is causing a bit of confusion. Clare increases between stitches, so her instruction “inc 1, K1” will turn 10 sts into 20. If it’s easier, you can replace each inc 1, K1 with kfb (knit into front and back of stitch). That means that if you're knitting the pudding the increase rows would translate as follows:
Row 2 *inc 1, K1. Rep from * to end becomes:
Making Up Instructions for Christmas Pudding
Run a length of yarn through the cast on stitches of the pudding and draw up to form a point. With the wrong (p) side facing outwards, stitch up 1/3 of the side seam. Repeat the process with the cast off seam and then turn the work right (k) side out. Stuff lightly and then sew up remaining side seam.
Run a length of yarn through the cast on stitches of the icing and draw up to form a point. With the wrong (p) side facing outwards, stitch up the entire side seam. Turn work right (k) side out and place on top of pudding. Stitch cast off seam in place around the pudding – try to make the seam as wavy as possible, just like authentic dribbly icing.
We've also had a couple of readers asking about the increasing for the pudding and other decorations. Clare has a slightly unusual way of doing her increases which is causing a bit of confusion. Clare increases between stitches, so her instruction “inc 1, K1” will turn 10 sts into 20. If it’s easier, you can replace each inc 1, K1 with kfb (knit into front and back of stitch). That means that if you're knitting the pudding the increase rows would translate as follows:
Row 2 *inc 1, K1. Rep from * to end becomes:
Row 2 kfb in every st.
Row 4 *Inc 1, K2; rep from * to end (effectively [inc 1, K1], K1) becomes: Row 4 *kfb, K1. Rep from * to end.
Row 8 *Inc 1, K2, inc 1, K1; rep from * to end becomes:Row 8 *kfb,K1, kfb. Rep from * to end.
And so on!Making Up Instructions for Christmas Pudding
Run a length of yarn through the cast on stitches of the pudding and draw up to form a point. With the wrong (p) side facing outwards, stitch up 1/3 of the side seam. Repeat the process with the cast off seam and then turn the work right (k) side out. Stuff lightly and then sew up remaining side seam.
Run a length of yarn through the cast on stitches of the icing and draw up to form a point. With the wrong (p) side facing outwards, stitch up the entire side seam. Turn work right (k) side out and place on top of pudding. Stitch cast off seam in place around the pudding – try to make the seam as wavy as possible, just like authentic dribbly icing.
Diamonds and Purls, issue 49
There was a piece missing from the first line of the wrap pattern in issue 49, and line two has been amended slightly.
Row 1 (WS): P5, K2, P6, K2, P5, yo, P5, yo, P6, yo, P6, yo, P5, K2, P6, K2, P5.
NOTE: the yo’s on this row don’t become stitches, they are there to provide extra yarn for the slip stitches that make the diamond shapes, so don’t pull your yo’s too tight.
Row 2: K1, P2W, P2W, P2, Sl 1 wyib, K4, Sl 1 wyib, P2, P2W, P2W, K1, drop yo from previous row, Sl 1 wyib, K4, Sl 1 wyib, drop yo from previous row, K5, Sl 1 wyib, drop yo from previous row, K4, Sl 1 wyib, drop yo from previous row, K1, P2W, P2W, P2, Sl 1 wyib, K4, Sl 1 wyib, P2, P2W, P2W, K1.
As you knit the next few rows you'll find you always slip the same stitch, so it gets longer and longer, and you always do the P2W above the previous P2Ws, so the pattern can feel complicated to start with - I found myself crossing out stitches as I did them for the first couple of rows - but after that you can see how the pattern is shaping up and it gets easier to see where you are.
I knitted a chunk of the wrap at home last night to test the amendments and they work for me, but if you have further problems do get in touch as it's still on the needles and I can work through it with you.
(Incidentally, knitted in DK yarn on 3.75mm needles, the pattern also makes a really nice scarf!)
Row 1 (WS): P5, K2, P6, K2, P5, yo, P5, yo, P6, yo, P6, yo, P5, K2, P6, K2, P5.
NOTE: the yo’s on this row don’t become stitches, they are there to provide extra yarn for the slip stitches that make the diamond shapes, so don’t pull your yo’s too tight.
Row 2: K1, P2W, P2W, P2, Sl 1 wyib, K4, Sl 1 wyib, P2, P2W, P2W, K1, drop yo from previous row, Sl 1 wyib, K4, Sl 1 wyib, drop yo from previous row, K5, Sl 1 wyib, drop yo from previous row, K4, Sl 1 wyib, drop yo from previous row, K1, P2W, P2W, P2, Sl 1 wyib, K4, Sl 1 wyib, P2, P2W, P2W, K1.
As you knit the next few rows you'll find you always slip the same stitch, so it gets longer and longer, and you always do the P2W above the previous P2Ws, so the pattern can feel complicated to start with - I found myself crossing out stitches as I did them for the first couple of rows - but after that you can see how the pattern is shaping up and it gets easier to see where you are.
I knitted a chunk of the wrap at home last night to test the amendments and they work for me, but if you have further problems do get in touch as it's still on the needles and I can work through it with you.
(Incidentally, knitted in DK yarn on 3.75mm needles, the pattern also makes a really nice scarf!)

























